Ultra-marathon runner Christian Schiester tells us about his personal battle to beat the heat and make it to the finish in the Gobi March, one of the world’s toughest tests of endurance, where survival itself is on a knife-edge…
June 30 – Gobi Desert
Today, we were already at the start line at 6am. Very high temperatures were predicted, so the launch was brought forward. Despite so many miles over gravel and boulders, the conditions were pleasant – to start with. As usual, Dan Parr and Chao Wei stormed ahead, and I followed at the safe distance of a few minutes behind. Shortly after the first checkpoint, the route turned to the right, straight into the Flaming Mountains. This consisted of loamy soil and loose stones, and its name reflects not only the red landscape that looks as if the mountains burn and glow, but moreover because it is burning hot. Stones and clay reflect and store the sun's rays, and the 40°C heat shimmers off the ground. In the flickering haze before me, I could detect a very small Chinese and Briton. Both could only go so fast, so I decided to launch an attack. After many exhausting miles of deep sand and high dunes, I’d caught Wei. We moved on to a fire-red high plateau with countless tiny hills, criss-crossed with small ditches.
The buzzing and flickering heat put me in a peculiar state, and only my deep breathing and the gentle wind could be heard. As if in a trance, I moved through this land of dreams – one of the best races of my life! With Parr no longer in sight, I reached 36km in second place with a time of 3h 38m 50s.
The Englishman is on another planet entirely and will be difficult to beat. But, 121km in, we are only at halfway. Tomorrow comes the Turpan Basin, the hottest place in China and the second deepest place on earth. At 150m below sea level, temperatures of about 50°C are expected. Before us is a real battle that will take well over 10 hours. Until then, I will do my best to recharge the batteries. The camp is located in a beautiful old temple, built of clay and wood, nestled in this beautiful desert landscape.
July 2 – Turpan Basin, Gobi Desert
At eight o’clock yesterday morning, the remaining participants gathered at the starting line. The hard fourth stage had already claimed many victims. A crippling cycle of constant nausea, sore feet and knees, and sometimes severe diarrhoea were seen everywhere in the camp. Others were simply afraid of the long distance and the predicted temperatures and therefore decided to call it quits.
We started off by a richly vegetated canyon traversed several times by a river. The leader Dan Parr, Chao Wei and I settled quickly. Wei tried an early attack, but was overtaken by Parr and me. It was not long before I saw the Englishman disappear over the horizon, and what followed was, put simply, awful – the initial rice fields and vineyards changed into endlessly bleak, brown plains. As we crossed the Turpan Basin, the sky was overcast with dark clouds, but still the heat topped 30°C. Crossing a creek bed, I slipped with my right foot and had to run in increasing pain. My energy reserves were automatically dropping rapidly and I felt almost empty.
After about 60km, I had to drop my pace to calm my racing pulse, with the Chinese coming rapidly closer behind. I reached the last checkpoint and saw already the final challenge ahead – a narrow road winding slowly up to the sand dunes that lay between me and the target. As soon as I reached the dunes, I knew it would be tight. The temperatures increased to 50°C, the sand was very deep and exhausting, and my already high pulse accelerated. After a few minutes, my last drop of water was drunk, and in my head was just a dull roar.
I couldn’t help thinking about the Chinese athlete who’d collapsed on the fourth stage in the middle of a boiling canyon, now in a coma with organ failure. Although my body cried out for me just to lie down and close my eyes, I stumbled on all fours up the sand dunes and then some tumbled down again. Finally, I lay exhausted, but hurriedly dug a hole with both hands in the dune and crept for a few minutes into the slightly cooler trough. My heart rate dropped, but I could not see and think clearly. For the first time in my life I was not sure whether I would survive.
With my last drop of energy, I dragged myself to the last dune and saw the camp below me. I've never been so glad to see the target! Even though I've said this often, I'm sure that this was the hardest and most dangerous day of my life. Despite getting hopelessly lost in the dunes, Dan Parr seems uncatchable after an impressive race.
Today I’m resting in the camp to try to recover – not easy in these temperatures. I’m starting to dream of the cool Mauterns forests of my homeland…
July 3 – Urumqi, China
It's done! After all the hardships and privations of the last few days, today I crossed the finishing line at a run, and I arrived safe and unharmed!
I am very satisfied with my performance and my second place. My experience and luck have helped me to defend my position over the entire distance against strong opponents. I must congratulate winner Dan Parr, who showed no weakness – this man has much potential.
So, the desert adventure is over. I went through four of the planet’s most inhospitable regions, witnessing breathtaking natural wonders, totally alien cultures, immense hardship and unique people. After the immediate pleasure of a shower and a wonderfully soft mattress, I’m now thinking of my family, the cool Mauterns forests and a juicy steak back home in Austria.
Many thanks to all who’ve supported me on my way and believe in me!
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