Climbing the wall with a leg in cast

David Lama climbed his first 8a route at the age of ten. Today he’s 17, lead climb and boulder European Champion – and hungry for more. Why climbing is his life and what he’s expecting from 2008 the Austrian describes in his very personal season preview.

David Lama on …

... his victory at the Boulder WC in La Reunion:

This win wasn’t such a surprise for me. I trained in bouldering the whole winter through. If things go as well for me at the next contests, I’ll concentrate on that for all of 2008.

... his accident during winter training:

During a free climb in Tyrol on January 10 a piece of rock fell on my foot and three metatarsal bones were broken. Shortly after that, though, I was already back on the wall. I just climbed with my leg in a cast and was able to continue training in a relatively normal way.

... climbing and his approach to life:

The difference between bouldering and lead climbing is not that great. Basically all climbers are made of the same stuff. For us, our sport isn’t just a hobby or a passion: it’s our life. It’s not just about physical exercise but above all about the mutual experience you have with your friends on a tour.

... becoming an adult as a top athlete:

Of course my life looks a bit different to my friends’, but there’s nothing that I have to forego because of my sport. The most important difference first came up in January, when I stopped my schooling because I was constantly forced to make compromises both at school and in sport.

... the lessons he’s learned in the last year:

Although the differences between bouldering and lead climbing aren’t as great as, for example, alpine skiing and freestyle, it isn’t possible to be at the top in both disciplines at the same time. I had to realize that last year, even if I’m one of three athletes to win a lead climb and a boulder WC. The stress of competition and the physical strain are simply too great – even if the contests are separated by time.

... his objectives in 2008:

I want to win the overall World Cup this year. First I want to concentrate solely on bouldering, because I feel strong in that discipline right now. In lead climbing I’ve already shown what I’m capable of, with my victories, the EC title 2006 and second place in my first WC season. That’s why I’ll also keep that in mind. My other goals of the season are to win the EC and the Rock Master in Arco.

... his secret climbing dream: