Surfing
Unravelling Andrew Cotton
Meet the finest big wave surfer in all of England.
Irish eyes are smiling on Andrew Cotton
© Christian McLeod
If you've been paying attention to the world of big wave surfing lately you might have found yourself wondering just who this Andrew Cotton guy is who you've seen charging Nazaré and whatnot, and questioning the fact that he's English. Well, he's right here having a chat with us and is absolutely, 100 percent, without doubt, from the land of fish and chips and cups of tea and Mary Frikken Poppins.
Andrew, first up, how does a guy from England become a big wave surfer? Good question! There aren't really any big waves in the UK, but my surfing just naturally gravitated towards the big stuff. You have to travel, but England is a great base for a European big wave surfer, all the spots are accessible relatively quickly and are affordable. It's great to be charging for my Queen and country.
You grew up in Devon. What are the waves like around there? Devon gets lots of fun waves; there are good beachies and a few classic points. There's nothing world class, but it's consistent enough to surf heaps. There's a great surf community, I joined the surf club at my local beach, Croyde, when I was about 11. They held local contests and all the carnage that comes along with it.
Were you a competitive surfer when you were younger? Like any kid who dreams of being a pro, I went down the contest route. I won a lot of local comps in North Devon when I was a grom, then went on to do the UK tour for a few years. My best result was a quarters at my home beach one year in pumping waves, but I was generally a bit of a first round clown, so I threw in the contest towel after a few years and bailed on my pro surfing dream.
Cotton falling out of the sky
© Jeff Flindt
At what point did you start chasing swells? Does England have many waves that hold size, or do you have to start out hitting Ireland, then going further afield in Europe? England has a bit of a continental shelf which stops us getting any really big or powerful waves, but I started hitting up Ireland about 12 years ago. I'd spent a few winters in Hawaii previously, which is where I found my passion for bigger waves.
You work as a lifeguard and a plumber to fund your adventures, when did surfing become this all-encompassing beast that took over your every waking moment? It's always been there, it is deep down in every surfer. I've always done jobs that have enabled me to maximise my surfing and travelling time. I left school at 15 and did an apprenticeship at a surfboard factory, then managed surf shops and repped for surf brands. The plumbing thing was a panic career when I was 25, as I was sick of always being broke and not having steady work. After six months in a "proper job" I quickly realised I'd rather be skint and surfing, than having money but only surfing weekends.
How much does your family mean to you, and do they understand exactly what it is that drives you to base your life around hunting big waves? I'm very lucky they put up with me! Having said that, my wife Katie isn't exactly a 9-5 person either, she's a musician and knows what it's like to want to follow your passion, and what it means to base my life around that.
Is it true your wife is afraid of the ocean? Katie loves the ocean, but since childhood her nemesis has been big waves. Ironic. She's supportive of my mission though, and comes to Nazaré and Ireland sometimes, but she definitely prefers to watch from dry land. She holds the fort at home on times when we can't all go on the trips, and we are planning travelling more as a family. But I think she secretly hopes our kids may take up a sport other than big wave surfing.
"One of the scariest big wave spots in the world"
© Jeff Flindt
The European big wave brigade seems very tight, how do you think it differs from say, the Hawaiian or American or Australian way of doing things? I'd say the whole big wave scene worldwide is pretty tight. There's such a small crew of global chargers keen to push each other, and the sport of big wave surfing. It's epic to see.
Tell us about Nazaré. It seems to be the main focus of the Euro crew, and nowadays many of the big dogs are coming from around the globe. It’s the world’s most famous straight hander! Ha! It's the world's hardest straight hander to surf when it's giant, for sure. I wouldn't say Nazaré is the main focus in Europe though, we have so many epic big waves, it's just that Nazaré gets the biggest.
I've been going to Nazaré for some time now. Garrett invited me down there the first year he went, to drive the skis and help with safety. It's definitely changed a lot, the first three years we surfed by ourselves the whole time. It's getting busier now, there are still loads of critics but I can honestly say if you come and check it out on a giant day, you'll quickly change your tune. The place is one of the scariest big wave spots in the world for sure, and I've learned a lot hanging out there over the years.
Andrew Cotton, RCJ, G-Mac and co.
© Jeff Flindt
Is it true you had four waves in a row land on your head out there? Yeah I had a shocker in December and it was probably my worst ever beating. Luckily my Patagonia vest did the job and I was inflating and deflating in-between the waves so I could dive under and lessen the kickings, but it wasn't fun. I prepare physically and mentally as much as I can for these moments, and although nothing can ready you for a few 50-footers on the head I wouldn't want to go through it without that preparation. I am really grateful to the team at Bay Fitness for helping me prepare and recover.
Hugo Vau whips Andrew Cotton the hell outta there
© Jeff Flindt
You teamed up with Ross Clarke-Jones and Garret McNamara last year, what sort of regard do you hold those two legends in? I first saw RCJ when I surfed Waimea. I was 19 and it was huge and closing out the bay. A huge set feathered on the horizon and the whole pack started scratching for the channel, apart from Ross who started paddling deeper. He got the wave of the day and ever since his approach to big waves has really inspired me. Garrett's approach to surfing and life is pretty amazing too, he's given me so much advice over the years, which I always take on board. One of the classics has to be, "When you think you're deep, go deeper."
Any last bits of trivia the world needs to know about Andrew Cotton? I'm a bloody nice bloke, who's always practising random acts of kindness and senseless beauty.
