This Is the Formula for the Ultimate Climber

Alex Megos is only 23, but his unique skills have already made him one of the world's top climbers.
© Ken Etzel/Red Bull Content Pool
By Evan David

There's a formula to making the perfect climber. Take strength, focus, endurance and add a heavy dose of determination, and you've got the makings of a one-of-a-kind athlete, an athlete like Alex Megos.

Watch the video above to learn more about Megos and his formula for epic ascents on rock. It's the first episode of four in the new series "The Alex Megos Formula."

At the young age of 23, Megos is an accomplished climber who still has plenty of time left on the rock. After spending time on the competitive climbing circuit as a teenager (and picking up a few titles along the way) the German has shifted his focus to the world's most challenging outdoor climbs.

Alex Megos on Lucid Dreaming in Bishop, California
Alex Megos on Lucid Dreaming © Ken Etzel / Red Bull Content Pool

He's one of ony three people in the world to have climbed what's widely considered one of climbing's toughest test pieces, First Round First Minute, a 9b-graded climb in Spain. It was first climbed in 2011 by legend Chris Sharma, repeated once in 2014 by Adam Ondra and finally ascended a third time in late 2015 by Megos.

Alex Megos
Alex Megos climbs in Spain © Frank Kretschmann / Red Bull Content Pool

Not only does Megos have over 40 routes graded 9a or higher under his belt (possibly more than anyone else in the world) he's also the first person to ever 'flash' a route graded 9 or higher — meaning he showed up and climbed it on the first go, with no prior knowledge of the route. 

Alex Megos rock-climbing in Spain
Alex Megos working it on the rock © Frank Kretschmann / Red Bull Content Pool

How does he do it? Training and science. Megos is famous for his discipline, both on the rock and in the gym. If it's raining and he can't climb outside, he's in the gym training.

But it takes more than dedication alone to be a great climber. Megos's logical, technique-inspired approach to climbing takes him where others can't go. He's a master of using friction, leverage and momentum to propel himself up a wall with the least amount of effort possible — it's how he pulled off two 9a ascents in one day.

You can learn more about Megos — and see some of his most impressive climbs — in the upcoming video series, "The Alex Megos Formula," on

Coming soon:
March 2016: Episode 1 – Momentum
May 2016: Episode 2 – Friction
July 2016: Episode 3 – Gravity
August 2016: Episode 4 – Symmetry

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