If you’re not falling, you’re not trying hard enough. And an authentic surfer tries hard enough.
Tragedy makes for a good story, and you can just ask Shakespeare about that. Humans are attracted to disaster and it is the turbulence that makes the triumph so sweet. This dichotomy of emotion is exactly why we strongly urge you to fall.
As far as the wave you fall on, the bigger, the better. Great stories aren’t born in waist-high surf. You’ve got to fall where it counts and fall like you mean it. Fall from the sky. Become one with the lip. Eat the guillotine. Whatever way you fall, make sure it comes from your heart. Because the more you fall, the better it will feel when you finally land whatever it is that you’re trying.
Falling is important because it brings a buttery ease to conversation. When you talk about how great of a wave you caught and how excellent of a surfer you are, your friends are going to call you a boastful prick. But when you share a good story about eating shit, you’ll be sharing a good laugh with pals. And we’ll cheers to that.