Surfing
Surfing
Molly Picklum's board blueprint, from daily driver to heavy water step-up
Australian powerhouse Molly Picklum details the finer points of her high performance equipment, explains why she's a fan of wearing helmets in waves of consequence.
Compared to a lot of sports, surfing's price of admission is relatively affordable. Brazilian superstar and 2019 world champion Italo Ferreira famously learned to stand up on the lid of an old ice chest, while 2015 world champion Adriano de Souza's first board cost his family $7.
Once you get into surfing however you'll soon discover your board is more than just a tool, it's an extension of your body. When you find a magic carpet that reacts on command your love of surfing will never be greater, but when you are at odds with your sled you may start questioning why you ever even attempted to take on such an impossible pastime as walking on water.
Molly Picklum's weapon of choice
© Tom Iffla/Red Bull Content Pool
At the highest levels, these feelings are amplified. While the average surfer mightn't be able to distinguish between a dozen high-end surf craft, to an elite competitor the tiniest adjustment can lead to a huge jump or precipitous decline in performance. We sat down with Molly Picklum at the Western Australia Margaret River Pro to talk all things foam and fibreglass.
Molly Picklum and her trusty DHD in action at Margaret River
© Beatriz Ryder/World Surf League
What's your go to bottom shape?
I like a single to double concave, then Darren plays around with the fin placement.
Always a round tail?
No. I like the squash-square sometimes as well.
Traction and accessories?
Creatures of Leisure all the way!
Molly Picklum's board of choice
© Tom Iffla/Red Bull Content Pool
Molly Picklum's step-up dimensions
© Tom Iffla/Red Bull Content Pool
What about fins?
I use Futures Fins, the DHD mediums. Generally a thruster, until we start getting into some barrels and then I'll occasionally go for a quad.
What is uniquely you about your board?
I think my boards are a little erratic, like me sometimes.
How much time do you put in with your shaper?
Not a whole lot because my schedule is ridiculous. Well, the tour's schedule, not just me, so there is really not much time, but I do try talk to Darren a bunch.
Molly Picklum and surfing's classic under-the-arm evaluation
© Tom Iffla/Red Bull Content Pool
Molly Picklum likes a little volume up front for more paddle power
© Tom Iffla/Red Bull Content Pool
Do you have a magic board, and what makes it magic?
Yes, I do. I’ve got a few! A 5’8”, 5’10” and a 6’0”. What makes it magic is if it feels a part of you or if it doesn't. And, if it doesn't, it's out.
Any rules you live by when you get a new board, do you give it the arm test?
Yeah, I feel I'm pretty good these days at picking up a board and knowing what it's gonna do and what it's gonna not do.
Is foam your friend?
Ooooh, foam does my head in both ways to be honest. Foam is my frenemy!
Molly Picklum paints her rails then buries them deep
© Aaron Hughes/World Surf League
You generally have coloured rails on your boards, do you ever mix things up with sprays or resin tints or anything like that?
I don’t really get into sprays, I just colour my rails to add some flare. I don't really put that much time and thought into it, but this year with each new batch of boards I've put a different colour on. I've mainly gone green here at Margaret River, but I've got some yellow ones in the mix too.
Molly Picklum sitting pretty in Tahiti
© Domenic Mosqueira/Red Bull Content Pool
Okay let’s talk about your step-ups, the boards you ride in bigger waves. Dimension please?
My step-up for Margaret River is 5’10” by 18-something by 2”. At somewhere like Teahupo’o I’d ride a 6’2” to a 6’6”, depending on how big the waves are. If you’re going to Tahiti for a swell you're chasing big barrels so you’d ride a bigger board. Often when you're there for the event it’s a little smaller though.
Is the volume in your bigger boards distributed differently?
Yep. Say, for Tahiti, there’s a lot of volume under the front foot for paddling power. I want all the volume up the top, and not much at the end (tail) for a little bit more responsiveness.
Molly Picklum always has her head in the game
© Domenic Mosqueira/Red Bull Content Pool
Talk to us about wearing a helmet.
The helmets have come about since we started going to Pipeline and Tahiti. It's a layer of safety. I'm not really sure how protective it is, but at the end of the day it's gonna stop a fin chop, or at least help a little bit.
When did you first start wearing one?
When I qualified and knew I was going to surf at Pipe. Never wore one as a little kid.
Molly Picklum's first line of defence
© Tom Iffla/Red Bull Content Pool
"Your wild heart knows! Trust it." Sage advice indeed.
© Tom Iffla/Red Bull Content Pool
Do you feel more confident when you put it on?
Yeah, I do, but I think you can learn both ways, I don't think it's a must. I think it's whatever you are used to, and for me, I'm used to it.
Do you think that extra little bit of confidence can lead to a little more safety purely because you back yourself, and don’t hesitate?
Exactly. Some people put the helmet on and they think, ‘oh, this is a scary situation’, and then they hesitate. Others have trained themselves to put a helmet on and it becomes your (superhero) cape. You put it on knowing that it's a dangerous situation and all your instincts just start buzzing.
A disproportionate number of Championship Tour events have been won by surfers wearing helmets in recent times, from Jeremy Flores to Owen Wright and Sally Fitzgibbons.
That’s true! Helmets work. Maybe I should wear one in Brazil!
