Surfing
Finding the perfect wave is the ultimate surfing goal, so what’s the best time of year for riding world-class swells? The answer depends on who you ask. Some might prefer to soak up the sun and laid back vibes that come with summer surfing. Others count the days until they can ride the kinds of monster winter swells seen at Red Bull Magnitude.
Summer and winter surfing each come with a unique set of challenges — but those are often outweighed by each surfing season’s many benefits.
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Summer surfing
Pros of summer surfing
Summer and surfing go together like salt and the sea. When school is out and the sun is blazing, hitting the waves is a favorite pastime for all kinds of people. From amateurs to seasoned experts, the warm weather and consistent surf conditions attract all levels to the shore.
The steady and gentle summer waves offer a prime setting for beginners on their first ride. Learning how to surf just might be the best way to spend a long day under the warm summer sun. Plus, a summer afternoon on the beach gives you ample opportunities to bond with other surfers. This is true in just about any oceanside city where you’re summer surfing.
Carissa Moore surfs at the 2018 Vans US Open of Surfing in Huntington Beach
© Pat Nolan / Red Bull Content Pool
It’s no surprise that California cities such as San Clemente are full of epic summertime swells. You can also catch one of the most legendary surf competitions in the world when the US Open of Surfing arrives in Huntington Beach. If you’re on the Atlantic coast looking for the best seasonal surf destinations, you can find waves with great variation in places such as Montauk.
Cons of summer surfing
While the summer brings loads of potential new surfing friends to the shore, the crowds also mean more competition for waves. You’ll need to be extra mindful of following surfing etiquette and respect right-of-way rules. Definitely never drop in (“dropping in” means taking an already occupied wave from another surfer).
The consistency in summer waves can be a double-edged sword when there’s a flat spell. This is when a prolonged cycle of small waves makes the water unsurfable. Flat spells can last anywhere from a few days to weeks, ruining your plans for daily summer surfing. Aside from the increase in flat spells, weaker waves often happen at peak surfing times when the onshore wind hits mid-afternoon.
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Winter surfing
Pros of winter surfing
Sure, getting into cold water when the outside temperature is already frigid might not exactly be your cup of tea. However, in many places, winter is the best surf season for big wave enthusiasts. Winter storms and strong winds often lead to powerful groundswell waves. Many expert-level surfers love to enjoy the huge winter swells on a mostly empty beach.
If you’re teetering between intermediate and advanced, tackling winter groundswells can push your skills to the next level. You usually have to paddle a bit faster and more intensely to reach a winter wave, too, so you get a well-rounded workout by default.
You might think winter surfing is an East vs. West coast battle, but you’ll find prime winter surfing along both the Pacific and Atlantic. Colossal swells can be found from Santa Barbara to the Outer Banks. The ultra-sized winter swells also make the later months a great time for some of the biggest surf competitions. The Vans Triple Crown of Surfing tours through some of the best waves in America, including the Oahu North Shore’s Pipeline surf break, during winter.
Jordy Smith at the 2011 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing in Hawaii
© Kolesky / Nikon / Red Bull Content Pool
Cons of winter surfing
The icy temperatures are probably the first reason you might hesitate to try out winter surfing. If you’re brave enough to face the cold water, make sure you’ve got proper winter surfing gear. You’ll definitely need a thick wetsuit that stays nice and insulated, along with wetsuit boots, a neoprene hood, and neoprene gloves. The other downside is that you’ll need to get going a lot earlier since you’ll have significantly less daylight at your disposal.
It’s also extremely important to be mindful of the stronger currents during winter. The conditions that produce these incredible swells can also lead to dangerous rip currents. Check conditions before you head out, and never, ever surf alone. Even if you’ve prepared, sometimes the current changes quickly, so it’s essential to have a buddy in case of an emergency.
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Choosing the right season
Consider your setting
If your location doesn’t get great winter swells, there’s no use forcing yourself out into the cold. If summertime only leads to ankle-high flat waves, you’re better off casually splashing around on your beach day. You might even live somewhere that doesn’t experience peak waves during either winter or summer. For example, New Jersey gets its best surfing during the fall.
Assess your skill and comfort level
Winter surfing can be a great challenge if you want to improve your big wave surfing skills, but not everyone is ready for it. Beginners who still need to strengthen their paddling stamina and balance should wait for summer. Of course, if you didn’t wipe out much during your first summer of surfing, winter might be a great time to keep practicing. Personal preferences are also an important factor. As long as you don’t mind the cold, winter surfing might be the answer if you can’t stand big crowds.
Surfing tips for all seasons
For some, surfing is a year-round pursuit, and it’s just a matter of adapting each season. If winter is your preference, summer can offer a nice chance to relax and cool down from your previous season of big-wave surfing. Plus, the gentle summer swells are ideal for learning how to read wave patterns, which is essential for gauging a winter wave’s power.
Winter surfing also offers an advantage to summertime surfers who love to show off in front of the throngs of crowds. The sparsely populated winter beaches are the perfect place to fine-tune all your big moves when no one’s watching. Come summertime, you’ll be a total pro.
If you’re new to winter surfing, you don’t need to conquer those giant waves right away. Take your time adjusting to the plummeting temperatures and start with small goals. Surfing for a quick 30-minute stretch is the first step to enduring hours in the winter waves.
No matter what time of year you’re surfing, safety should always be your number one priority. Whether it’s the right wetsuit or a secure surf leash, make sure you have all the right gear. Additionally, don’t take it for granted that summer means safer surfing conditions. The waves may be smaller, but you still need to check the surf report and bring a friend so you’re not surfing alone.
If conditions change or you start feeling tired, don’t push past your limits. The ocean will always be more powerful than even the most skilled surfer no matter the season.
Discover the joys of surfing any season
It’s not that winter is better than summer or vice versa — each is just better for different types of surfing. Summer surfing delivers consistency and comfort, while winter surfing provides big waves galore. It’s ultimately a matter of figuring out your own skill level and preferences. You might even find that you love both, and you’ll never truly have to put your surfboard away.