Dancing Ledge is good for all abilities
© Cumulus
Climbing

10 top climbing spots in the south of the UK

From beginner to experienced climber, we've got some of England's and Wales's top climbs for you...
Written by Lucy Grewcock
6 min readPublished on
From Britain’s biggest gorge to some of the UK’s best sea cliff climbs and deep water solos, the rock climbing ‘down south’ is too good to miss. Here are ten of the best spots in southern England and Wales.
NB: The below climbs should only be attempted under the instruction of an experienced guide (you can find details of guides and tour companies below). Due to the coronavirus pandemic, some of the below courses and tours however may not be running, so check before you go.
For guidance from the British Mountaineering Council on climbing safely in England during this time, click here. For Wales, click here.

1. Land’s End, Cornwall

The tip of Cornwall’s toe beckons climbers with intermediate and expert level routes on tidal cliffs and granite cracks. Along with stunning scenery and swirling seas, you get the added kudos of climbing at the most southerly and westerly point on mainland Britain. Popular crags include Sennen, Bosigran and Chair Ladder; or you can seek out quieter spots to seek out with a good guidebook – try Rockfax West Country Climbs.
Try it: Kernow Coasteering offers full day multi-pitch climbing courses from £70pp, and intermediate/introductory climbs from £60pp. Cornish Rock Tors run climbing sessions for beginners, intermediates and experts from £60pp.

2. Berry Head, South Devon

A limestone headland near Torbay, Berry Head is a mecca for deep water soloing (DWS). Climbing without ropes, DWS climbers use the water as a crash mat. Within Britain, Berry Head is one of the very best spots for it. Here, you can climb across pink-tinged cliffs and sea caves, where fish swim below and falcons soar above. The ultimate challenge is the Wizard of Oz line – a series of several linked routes that require serious sticking power.
Try it: Experienced climbers can find out more at ukclimbing.com and thebmc.co.uk, or in the UK/Devon Rockfax guides.

3. Valley of the Rocks, North Devon

Crowned by Castle Rock, this dry valley runs parallel to the North Devon coast. Expect everything from beginner-friendly climbs and bouldering routes, to challenging problems and tricky overhangs. All abilities can tackle Castle Rock and the 25ft abseil back down, while confident climbers can test their nerve on some of Britain’s highest sea cliffs. Just watch out for the roaming goats.
Try it: Bring your own kit, or book a guided climb with Exmoor Adventures. Adult prices are £35pp, or £100 for a family of four.

4. Isle of Portland, Dorset

Some great views to be had

Some great views to be had

© Steve Wilson

A lump of limestone that links to the mainland via Chesil Beach, the Isle of Portland is riddled with routes that range from easy peasy ascents, to serious cliff climbs. On the east coast, The Cuttings is a good place to get acquainted. With vertical cliffs and sea views, this former railway cutting has bolted climbs for all levels, including some very do-able beginner routes.
Try it: Portland Climbing offer a range of rock climbing courses, from half day tasters to one-on-one coaching. Tasters start at £22 in a group of eight.

5. Dancing Ledge, Dorset

Dancing Ledge is good for all abilities

Dancing Ledge is good for all abilities

© Cumulus

A few miles from the village of Langton Matravers, Dancing Ledge is one of the most popular all-abilities climbing spots on Dorset’s Swanage coast. There are around 100 routes in total, and many are pre-bolted. If you’re a novice, it’s worth noting that some of the easier climbs have become polished after years of use, making them harder than their grade. Finish your day by plunging into the tidal pool, which was blasted into the rock a century ago.
Try it: Cumulus Outdoors can arrange guided climbs and tasters. Half day group sessions start at £39pp.

6. Cheddar Gorge, Somerset

A three-mile limestone valley that cuts into the Mendip Hills, Britain’s biggest gorge boasts hundreds of climbs on 27 crags that are up to 450ft tall. There’s plenty for all abilities, from short and easy pitches to some of the UK’s longest climbs. As a tourist hotspot there are restrictions, so you’ll need to check the Cheddar Gorge Access Calendar first, and adhere to the Cheddar Gorge Climbers Code.
Try it: Book a guided climb with Cheddar Gorge. 90-minute sessions cost £22pp in a group of up to ten.

7. Symonds Yat, Wye Valley

Bordering England and South Wales, climbing in the Wye Valley gives panoramic views over the Forest of Dean and snaking River Wye. Symonds Yat is a stunning spot with dramatic cliffs and the freestanding Longstone Pinnacle – climbing this crag is a right of passage, and there are several routes to the top. Other Wye Valley options include Wintour’s Leap, and the quarry at Tintern Quarry.
Try it: Book a taster session, climbing course or top-level coaching with Tony Penning.

8. Huntsman’s Leap, Pembrokeshire

For experts only, this dramatic ascent takes place in a narrow, sheer-sided coastal chasm, which the sea enters at high tide. Technical, strenuous and very atmospheric, Huntsman’s Leap demands expert gear placement and promises some of the best sea cliff climbing in Britain. An MOD firing area that’s also popular with tourists and nesting birds, you’ll need to check the seasonal access restrictions before you visit – visitpembrokeshire.com is a good source of info.
Try it: Find out more at UK Climbing and The BMC.

9. Three Cliffs Bay, Gower

A good option for your first taste of cliff climbing, Three Cliffs Bay offers lower-grade tidal climbs on limestone cliffs that reach up to 80ft high. A popular route is Scavenger – this Welsh classic skirts the edge of a sea cave. One of the best-known and most picturesque climbing spots in the Gower, regular use means that some areas have become polished.
Try it: Individual or group climbing sessions start at £35/day with Gower Adventures.

10. Harrison's Rocks, East Sussex

These Southern Sandstone outcrops lure climbers with more than 380 routes. All abilities can climb here but placing gear is prohibited, due to the fragile rock. Instead, most routes have fixed rings for top roping. Located one mile from the village of Groombridge near Bircham Wood, there’s parking, a toilet, and even a campsite here, so you’re all set to make a weekend of it. Be sure to read the BMC’s code of practice before you climb.
Try it: Nuts 4 Climbing run three-hour taster sessions, longer introduction courses and private tuition. Tasters cost £55pp.