Surfing
Surfing
The best UK waves to shoot according to 7 surf photographers
Picture-perfect peaks, slabs worthy of your snaps, and the practical advice you need to capture them like a pro.
Let's not sugarcoat it: surfing in the UK is all kinds of exhausting. Physically, you’re paddling in a thick neoprene suit that makes your muscles work 10 times as hard; mentally, you’re ignoring the screams inside your head telling you to stay the heck out of the sub-arctic waters; and emotionally, you’re hoping and praying for the holy trinity of wind, weather and swell that seems to only arrive when you’re at work.
Yep, it’s a drain. Enough of a drain to wonder why people keep going back.
But this should answer that question. Despite its imperfections, the UK is home to some of the most unexpectedly beautiful, blindsidingly brilliant waves in Europe – and here’s the proof.
Here, seven of the little island’s most respected surf photographers share their favourite homegrown break to capture, and the practical advice that’ll help you get the best results with your lens in the water, too. Go on, just look at how good they look…
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1. Gwithian Beach, Cornwall
Longboarder Adam Griffith effortlessly runs the board at Gwithian Beach
© Lucia Griggi
As captured by: Once named as one of the 50 best travellers of our time by Conde Nast Traveller, professional surf and adventure photographer Lucia Griggi has attracted international acclaim and top-tier awards for her work.
From shooting Kelly Slater scoring perfect tens in Hawaii to Hollywood stars like Matthew McConaughey, polar bears in the Arctic and indigenous tribesfolk in Panama, it’s little surprise that you’ll rarely catch Lucia relaxing at her home in St. Ives, Cornwall.
Who’s that, where’s that: "It’s pro longboarder Adam Griffith at Gwithian Beach, near Hayle in Cornwall.”
Why here: "Although the water temperatures are still a little frisky, this is a great spot to photograph in the summer, as the water is crystal clear, and the long, wide, white sands stretch with many peaks along the coastline. It works best with no to little wind, at a mid to high tide, and is ideal for longboarders looking for long rights and lefts.
A huge plus for photographers is that there’s no mega hike in with equipment, as you walk from the carpark straight to the beach. Then, all you need to decide is if you’re going to shoot from the beach, the water or the cliffs. You’ve got a great selection to choose from.”
Why this shot works: “Adam is one of the world’s best longboarders. I love this shot as he has all 10 on the nose and is effortlessly running the board with a high-performance style.”
Essential kit: “Knowing there’s a flask of chai latte waiting for me in the car makes getting into the frigid Cornish waters far easier.”
Pro tip: "'Fin Rub’ will ruin your session. If you’re going in the water with a camera you need to be wearing fins, so put some thin diving socks or padded leash straps underneath to avoid the rubbing your ankles raw."
2. Sennen, Cornwall
Vans pro rider Seb Smart showcases the mighty currents at Sennen Beach
© Tom Young
As captured by: Growing up on the rugged and remote coastline of Cornwall, 31-year-old photographer Tom Young has a knack for finding beauty in the gnarliest of waves. His work documenting bodyboarders sliding under Tasmanian monsters, and following pro riders into giant slabs in The Canaries has attracted clients such as The North Face, Vans, Rapanui, Sprayway and more.
Who’s that, where’s that: “It’s Vans pro rider Seb Smart at Sennen, a spot right on the toes of England."
Why here: "Sennen is so raw and beautiful – if I’m not there for the surf, I’m there for one of the best sunsets in Cornwall. It’s westerly facing, so it picks up consistent swell, and it has some truly exceptional water clarity. Then again, the ever-changing banks, shifting peaks and big currents can make an 'all-time' session a rarity. But that’s what makes the chase so worthwhile."
Why this shot works: "It was a gloomy afternoon and the rips were out of control, but Seb’s style is super cruisy, which is why he looks so comfortable in this tube. I remember getting swept out to sea with another mate, and watching from afar as Seb dropped in to barrel after barrel. Eventually I got myself back into position and managed to get him into frame. I think the barrel in the background really makes this image – it shows just how shifty the peaks can be at Sennen. Before this, Seb and I had been discussing a trip to The Canaries, and we wanted to make sure that we ‘clicked’ before committing. I think this session solidified the pact between surfer and photographer."
Essential kit: “I’ve always got my fins and Dryrobe in my van, but hands down the most important thing in my kit is ear plugs. If I forget them, then I can forget a good night's sleep. You know when you were a kid and you used to put a shell to your ear to hear the ocean? Well that’s what I’m hearing all night if I leave them at home."
Pro tip: "Get to know your camera inside-out before putting it into a water housing. There are so many variables when shooting surfing that force you to think outside the box. For example, in the winter months in Cornwall, the prospect of a dawn with perfect tides can be exciting and anxiety-inducing, so it’s crucial to know what to adjust as the light around you changes rapidly.”
3. Thurso East, Scotland
Look how the sunrise lights up this wave at Thurso East
© Roger Sharp
As captured by:Roger ‘Sharpy’ Sharp, 48, has been shooting on the water for 25 years, pointing his lens for the likes of O’Neill, Rip Curl, C-Skins, Quiksilver and many more. He’s currently the editor of UK surf mag Carve and based between Cornwall and Gatwick “depending on whether there’s a wave or not."
Who’s that, where’s that: “It’s Aussie ex-pat Micah Lester, who lived in the UK for a good few years. He’s now married to a Hawaiian lady so lives on the real North Shore instead of hanging around the ‘Norse Shore’ of Scotland where this was shot. It’s the legendary Thurso East."
Why here: "Thurso doesn’t get good very often, and its many devoted locals mean that finding it quiet is a rare treat these days. As it’s such a long wave, the challenge is figuring out where to be. Not only that, but the freshwater from the river mixing with the seawater can be an issue from a technical point of view.
"And then there’s the cold. Sunrise is the best time to shoot here, but it means cracking ice on the reef to walk out. If there is a sun at all, of course. It’s not common, and in winter you’ve got a very short window of daylight. All things considered though, it’s still the best right in mainland UK for sure."
Why this shot works: "With this shot, the water colour is the kicker. The light brown effect is caused by the peat washing off the moors and into the river, so the end section of the wave gets this brown hue. The sunrise lit it up in a mad way, too. This was the first wave of the morning, and Micah actually cracked his ankle bone on the next, which put an end to the session. I like the composition and how relaxed Micah looks, but it would have been nice if the lip was a little more overhead.”
Essential kit: "When I’ve got a long swim out, I wear a diving belt with a karabiner attached to it. That way I can clip my Aquatech camera waterhousing to it and concentrate on getting out there.”
Pro tip: "The biggest enemy of newbies in the water is droplets on the port. There is all kinds of mad advice about preventing it, but you don’t need toothpaste, potatoes or any other magic sauce. If you’re shooting wide angle, just lick the port – the saliva makes a wet layer that stops the drops in their tracks. For longer lenses with a flat port, the secret is finger grease. Just work your finger tips across the port then give it a buff with a microfibre cloth before you go in.”
4. Polzeath, Cornwall
Cornish surfer Abby Stewart elegantly rides the waves at Polzeath, Cornwall
© Megan Hemsworth
As captured by: At just 24, Cornish photographer Megan Hemsworth has been photographing surfers for a quarter of her life – two years of which have been from the water. She’s leant her dreamy, laid-back style to a range of brands and publications, from Roxy to SurfGirl Magazine.
Who’s that, where’s that: “It’s Polzeath, on the north coast of Cornwall. And that’s surfer Abby Stewart in shot."
Why here: "Polzeath is a stunning wave for all abilities. The beach is very welcoming, with amazing surf schools for beginners and great spots for advanced surfers too. I love its diversity. It’s a special place for me to photograph because it’s where I first became comfortable with the sea – I feel I know the wave well. I will always try to shoot here at sunset, mainly because that when it’s quietest, but also in summer the beach is facing directly at the sun and you get the most stunning shots. That said, it can really challenge me creatively to work in front-lit and back-lit conditions, depending on whether the surfer is on a left or right wave, and I like that.”
Why this shot works: "This image is special to me not only because Abby is a dear friend of mine, but because it captures the exact emotion I feel when shooting. The light streaming in over the wave like that, along with Abby’s elegant style, I think complement each other so well."
Essential kit: "There’s always a National Trust card in my windscreen. Not only does buying one help support the Cornwall coastline, but it means I don’t have to remember to carry change for most of the beach car park.
Pro tip: "If you’re new to a break or beach, the best advice is to ask for advice. Ask someone who knows the spot about the rips, and rocks, and where the channel is, so that you spend your energy on being creative and not constantly getting out of the way of trouble.”
5. Bossiney, Cornwall
At times spontaneous shots are the best, like this one of Jobe Harriss
© Ben Selway
As captured by: 41-year-old Ben Selway has been photographing in the water since 1997, formerly working full-time for various surf magazines like Wavelength, but now predominantly in the wedding industry. Originally from Bristol but now based in Cornwall, he still gets in the ocean for “odd bits and pieces” (when the temperature is right).
Who’s that, where’s that: “This is Jobe Harriss from Bude in Cornwall, on a thumping beach break that used to be a secret spot called Bossinney, but that everyone floods to now when the winter swell gets huge."
Why here: "When it works, Bossiney is incredibly deceiving. I’d say about 80 per cent of waves close out, but occasionally you’ll get a ridiculously hollow one like this. I can’t say it’s the greatest place in Cornwall to surf, but because of its ability to get so hollow, and the set-up making it ideal for shooting, it’s a dreamy place to photograph in the water. I swim out a lot here. In fact, I once had a photo taken of me (by a guy called Tony Plant), where I’m shooting a surfer called George Franklin air-dropping off a chunky wedge, that went viral on Instagram.”
Why this shot works: “This wave literally came out of nowhere, on what was a pretty average day. I remember seeing Jobe to my left, and I swam as quickly as I could to try and get a conventional barrel shot. I was out of position, but think I lucked out with this framing. This shot works because it’s full of anticipation: the barrel he’s about to pull into, followed by the little backdoor section, and then a decent ramp at the end."
Essential kit: "Sounds obvious, but invest in a decent wetsuit. And that’s from a guy that refuses to get in the water between November and April."
Pro tip: "I only shoot in manual focus. Before I get in the water I’ll pre-set my camera so the focal point is about 4ft from me, then set the aperture north of f7.1, and use a shutter speed of around 1250/s, all depending on the light that day. Doing that tells me that everything within two to six feet will be pin sharp, so I don’t need to shoot through the viewfinder."
6. Tens, Scotland
This monochrome shot of Rick Willmett emphasis the viscous nature of Tens
© Tim Nunn
As captured by: World-renowned photographer Tim Nunn is as much a part of UK surfing as weaverfish stings, brain freezes and impossibly thick neoprene. One-time editor of Wavelength, and with a client list that includes Nike, Nat Geo Adventure, EPSN, Finisterre and Ford, Tim’s shot them all, and is known by all, too.
He’s released a number of photo-books, including Numb, which was created in the cold waters of Canada, Norway, Iceland and Scotland, and is founder of environmental cause The Plastic Project.
Who’s that, where’s that: “This is Rick Willmett, and a little spot called Number Tens up in Scotland.”
Why here: "It’s probably the nastiest place you’d ever want to surf. It’s not friendly, it’s dangerous, it’s shallow, and it’s hard to score. But because of all that, and how much is going on, it’s an epic place to shoot. And if the sun comes out, it’s like a studio all day. It means that no two shots are ever the same here, which makes it feel really special.
"You’re going to get results with both long and short lenses, but be warned, while it’s dead easy to paddle out, it’s a nightmare to exit the water, especially as a photographer. I’ve been seriously smashed here before. It once took me 45 minutes in fading light and increasing swell to find a way out. Yep, it’s real fun…”
Why this shot works: "The lighting was dreadful and it was freezing cold. Oh, and we weren’t expecting waves, which is why I only had a fisheye rig with me. The swell was really shifty, but when I finally got out there, the lack of sunlight and glare made the water incredibly clear. I’ll admit that I was out of position for this shot – I should have been deeper – but the wave swung wide, Rick got on it, and the angle meant I could capture the outline of the slab perfectly. Seeing perfect shallow slabs like it is pretty common, but rarely do you get to the actual reef below it so well.”
Essential kit: “Coffee. I always take a flask to warm up with before getting in the water."
Pro tip: “Always visualise shots you want to get before you head out. It's real easy to do when you're on the beach as you can move around and change lenses, but you really have to plan hard if you’re getting in the water."
7. Fistral Beach, Cornwall
This shot of Alan Stokes truly captures the motion and flow of the waves
© Philly Stokes
As captured by: Despite travelling around the world with her camera, 26-year-old Philly Stokes still calls her hometown of Newquay, Cornwall her favourite place to surf. Not only has she been a freelance photographer for more than five years, but she’s founded her own creative agency, Wild Tide Creative and sells her prints, too.
Who’s that, where’s that: This is Alan [Stokes, Philly’s husband and pro surfer] on his longboard at Fistral Beach.”
Why here: "Cornwall is the most perfect place for waves – there are so many beaches around Newquay facing many directions, so the surf is always consistent. It's the best place I've ever surfed. At Fistral in particular though, there are so many different waves. One day it can be 5 feet clean and the next 2 feet friendly peelers, it's forever changing. The light, the waves, the sand, no photograph ever looks the same. No sunset is ever the same and because I live within walking distance I get to see this place from sunrise to sunset, so whenever the light and waves look good, I'll be there with my camera.”
Why this shot works: "I love creating motion, speed and flow in my photos. I spend most of my time playing with long exposures. The beauty is that you never know what you’re going to get – it what makes it so enjoyable for me and different to my other work. I love this shot the most because when the waves are peeling like that, and the sun is dropping, it's when I’m forced to leave my camera and jump in. This session I had to get in the water too.”
Essential kit: “I like to keep things simple when I'm photographing. Usually I'll just make sure I have warm clothes, my camera gear, my surfboard and my wetsuit for when the temptation gets too much.”
Pro tip: “It’s really important to get to know the surfer you’re shooting, and learn their flow. You need to be able to read their body language to know what they’re going to do next.”
