Surfing
Surfing
Why the world’s best big wave surfers keep returning to Tenerife
Surf pros Laura Coviella and Ben Larg, together with Red Bulletin writer Amy Woodyatt, chase dream waves in Tenerife – and discover an island full of surprises.
During a recent trip to Tenerife, charging Spanish surfer Laura Coviella and budding British wave-rider Ben Larg took Red Bulletin writer Amy Woodyatt on a captivating search for the biggest waves in northern Tenerife. Here are Amy's thoughts and findings from an unforgettable few days in the Canary Islands.
The early bird catches the big waves
The waves of Punta del Hidalgo amaze me. You hear them long before you see them: the rhythmic pulse of the surging water, interrupted by the sound of boulders being washed ashore by the tide on the northern peninsula of Tenerife and then flung back again.
On our third day on the largest of the Canary Islands, we're in search of extra-large waves. We drive over mountain passes, past a patchwork of banana, avocado, and dragon trees, to the black sand beaches in the north. The conditions are perfect. Surf pros Laura Coviella, a local, and visiting Scotsman Ben Larg dive into the water with their boards before the waves start to shrink again.
Laura Coviella has carved out a niche in the free surfing community
© Gines Diaz/Red Bull Content Pool
About Laura Coviella: The smooth and fearless surfer
In the shadow of Bajamar's towering cliffs, they paddle out and soon become two tiny dots in the distant, vast blue. Laura and Ben are on the hunt for barrels, those tubes that form when waves fold forward as they break.
Ben on the characteristic black stones in northeastern Tenerife
© Peter Laing
It's been ages since I've been to a completely new place
Today's mission begins at the crack of dawn. For Ben, who has been surfing his whole life, getting up early is routine. He grew up on the Scottish island of Tiree, started surfing in the cold waters of his homeland at the age of two, and was already riding the monster waves in Nazaré by the age of 16.
Now 21, he travels the world almost constantly – always on the lookout for ideal waves to train in. Most recently, he was in Portugal and Lanzarote. Tenerife, however, still offers unexplored waters. "It's been ages since I've been to a completely new place," he says as we get ready for the action.
Ben Larg: The boy who surfed Nazaré's monster waves at 16.
Driven by adrenaline
Laura Coviella invited Ben Larg to test out the island's diverse surf spots. The 27-year-old gained her first experience on the windy El Médano beach in Tenerife before turning pro. "I've always loved adrenaline," she says with a grin as she loads her board into our rented minivan. "When I realised that adrenaline and surfing go hand in hand, I thought: Okay, this is exactly my thing."
Laura now lives on the neighbouring island of Lanzarote and knows all about the island's numerous surf spots. Thanks to the year-round warm climate, Tenerife's clear waters are considered perfect for beginners. But pros also get their money's worth. Occasionally, the waves grow to up to six metres. "On great days, you can see the surf from the shore," Laura's boyfriend, Aki, tells me as we climb into the van early in the morning and set off on the 45-minute drive to the Punta del Hidalgo reef break.
Surfing off this coast always brings the striking volcanic rocks into view
© Peter Laing
While searching for surf spots, we have time to experience the contrasts of Tenerife. The island's volcanic heritage is immediately apparent when driving along the south coast and admiring the layer upon layer of black rocks piled upon one another. In the north, you could easily mistake it for another country: succulents, ferns and trees rise from steep cliffs, and the mountain peaks are shrouded in clouds. "The beauty of the island is the reason I always enjoy coming home," Laura tells me.
The planning pays off
Laura had received word that promising breakers were expected the next day in the north of the island. As we gazed at the Atlantic beyond the dramatic cliffs of Punta del Hidalgo, we knew Laura Coviella's planning had paid off. While I waited on the black volcanic headland, the spray crashing against me, I watched Ben Larg work his way through the water in his natural habitat, repeatedly diving under waves to get into position. When a really big wave came towards him, he paddled frantically, stood up, disappeared briefly into a metre-high tube, and then glided triumphantly out.
Moments later, he surfaces. "Did you see that?" he asks with a sly smile. Even though it wasn't the biggest wave of his life, it's just as satisfying for Ben Larg. "Sometimes sessions like today are the most rewarding," he says. "You feel like you've found and surfed the best waves, meaning you've done everything right!"
The Scotsman was in his element on the enormous waves
© Peter Laing
Travel tips for Tenerife
Tenerife, the largest of the Canary Islands, lies about 300km off the west coast of Morocco. The island has two airports – Tenerife North and Tenerife South. Those who love adrenaline but aren't keen on surfing can try paragliding, kayaking or hiking. For those seeking relaxation, a visit to the old town of San Cristóbal de La Laguna (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) or stargazing at night in Teide National Park is a must.
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