Climbing
Winter Wonderland: Climbing Ireland’s highest peak
Looking to make the most of the outdoors over the Christmas break? We have just the ticket
Few feelings of satisfaction compare to that of the accomplishment of climbing a mountain. And we decided that if we were going to go to effort of hauling our backsides out of the house on a cold winter’s day we better make the most of it by conquering Ireland’s highest peak, Carintoohill in Co Kerry, which stands at 1039m, at sunrise.
However, getting out of the car in Cronin’s Yard – the starting point of our hike – at 5.30am, we were beginning to question our sanity. It was pitch black and freezing cold. We made a few last minute checks to ensure we had all of the necessary equipment and headed on our way. The ground was icy and treacherous underfoot along Hag’s Glen, the relatively flat lead-in to the mountain itself, but with our headtorches on full beam, we moved at a brisk pace knowing that we were pushed for time if we wanted to make it to the summit for sunrise.
Enjoying the view
© Heather Irvine
Choosing to take the Curved Gully route to the summit and with snow thick on the ground, we had a tough climb ahead. But as the saying goes – if it’s not painful, it’s not worth it. Due to the weather we erred on the side of caution and popped on crampons and helmets, we also had ice-axes and rope with us, just in case, as the locals had warned us of thick ice in the gully.
Half way up the gully, my partner and I took a short break. Sitting down in the soft snow beneath me I looked up to the sky for the first time. The sun had reared its head and the sky had begun to transform itself from pitch black to a gorgeous burnt orange. It was as if somebody was adjusting a dimmer switch as different parts of the landscape began to reveal themselves. “Flipping hell,” I thought to myself, “Ireland really is a spectacular place.” This was escapism at its best.
Climbing the gully
© Heather Irvine
In snow, the climb is considerably tougher than normal and due to position of the gully you can expect deep pockets of snow and sheer ice faces – the ice axe definitely came in handy more than once.
Climbing out of the gully, I was treated to one of the most impressive vistas I have ever seen. Had I actually fallen down the gully, died and gone to heaven? It certainly felt like it.
As we walked towards the summit, safe in the knowledge that the most arduous part of our climb was behind us, we were treated to a snow-covered cross sitting against a crystal clear sky. Lying low, the orange sun illuminated the cross. It was a completely surreal sight.
We sat in the shelter of the stone wall on the summit, took our flask of tea out and without needing to say a word to each other, we knew we were sharing one of those moments that you stays with you for a lifetime. With our bellies full of chocolate and tea, we made our way tentatively down the mountain with an adrenaline kick that would last the week.
Carintoohill
© Heather Irvine
The Facts:
• The route we took via the Curved Gully from Hag’s Glen is 13km. Curved Gully has a height gain of 340m.
• Weather on Carintoohill can be very unpredictable so good navigation skills are essential. Don’t leave home without a map and compass. Map: Harvey Superwalker 1:30,000 MacGillycuddy Reeks.
• Good quality kit is also essential. If you are heading up in freezing temperatures, crampons, ice axes, helmets and ropes are recommended. A good headtorch, plenty of warm layers, waterproofs and first aid equipment is also essential. We were on the mountain for four hours but we moved quickly, less seasoned hikers should be prepared to be out for 6-7 hours.
• Less experienced hikers should climb Carintoohill with a guide. A guide will also provide you with the necessary equipment if you don’t already own crampons etc. Kerry Climbing and Outdoors Ireland offer a wide range of guided hikes.
•Carintoohill is located in the Macgillycuddy Reeks mountain range. The carpark at Cronin’s Yard is a 25 minute drive from Killarney.
Where to stay:
Don’t miss:
Kate Kearney’s Cottage at the Gap of Dunloe – with a turf fire and hearty fare, Kate Kearney’s cottage is a must for a post-hike reward.