Climbing
How an addiction to progress keeps Janja Garnbret atop the climbing world
Slovenian sport climber Janja Garnbert has won all there is to win in a glittering career, but she's far from finished and the chase for personal progress is driving her to ever greater heights.
Janja Garnbret has won everything imaginable in the world of sport climbing and yet is back at it in her quest for further glory. The inaugural Olympic gold medallist in Tokyo, the Slovenian defended that title in Paris last summer and, following a decade at the top of her sport, is as motivated as ever to stay there.
With a medal collection that also boasts eight gold medals from the world championships, the 25-year-old could be forgiven for resting on her laurels. And yet Garnbret has a talent not just for climbing, but also regrouping and finding her next new challenge, and the direction to take.
Of the secret behind her ability to stay motivated to be at the pinnacle of her sport, she explains: "For me, it's always been progress. It's addictive, because sometimes in training a hold feels very bad, but then two months later this hold feels very good. So, it’s the progress that is addictive, because you see that training is working and you get stronger and stronger. I'm addicted to progress."
Janja Garnbret tames the World Cup wall in Innsbruck
© Stefan Voitl/Red Bull Content Pool
It's Garnbret's relentless dedication in both training and competition - not to mention her innate climbing ability - which puts her head and shoulders above the rest of the world's elite.
"In a competition, I just want to show everyone that it's possible, what is possible and how far you can go, mentally and physically," she says. "It's never been about breaking records, it was just my will, that competition feeling and adrenaline; that moment where someone says, 'you're next, have a go'.
"In that moment, you have to show what you've been training for. That feeling is so addictive: being there, the feeling of competition, being in your own world and not hearing anybody. Even if there are 10,000 people watching, you don't hear anything. You don't hear them, you don't hear the music, it's just you and the wall. You're the only one climbing and it's about trying to solve everything in front of you. It's very addictive."
Garnbret's self motivation is her key to ongoing success
© Stefan Voitl/Red Bull Content Pool
When I'm having fun, then I'm automatically in the zone. I don't need to put myself there
Garnbret readily admits that the big events have helped shape her as an athlete and a person, giving her fresh purpose and enabling her to return each year to pre-season training with a fresh drive to succeed.
She's not afraid to admit that the toil of getting to and then staying at the top can take it out of her. At the end of any given season, she ensures she takes a full two weeks off from climbing, even avoiding thinking about it at all.
Luckily for Garnbret, she has an all-in mentality. When she's in the zone, everything is fun and being in the zone comes naturally for her – she has razor-like focus. "When I'm having fun, then I'm automatically in the zone. I don't need to put myself there, I don't need to force it. I'm just in the zone when I'm having fun."