Climbing
Magnus Midtbø on Red Bull Dual Ascent: “For me, sport is entertainment”
The Norwegian climber and YouTuber climbed the Verzasca Dam in Switzerland during Red Bull Dual Ascent – here, he shares his thoughts and reflects on the evolution of the sport.
In October, Magnus Midtbø came to Switzerland to watch 16 elite climbers compete in teams of two at the first head-to-head multi-pitch climbing competition on artificial routes in Red Bull Dual Ascent.
He climbed the route himself, too, partnering with US climber and filmmaker Cedar Wright. Having experienced the 220m-high Verzasca Dam first-hand, Midtbø shares his thoughts on the event – and what makes climbing such a unique and endearing sport.
Read on as the Norwegian legend explains in his own words what he made of the new event:
Here, there are different tactics, and you just get exhausted – drained
When explained, Red Bull Dual Ascent is very simple to understand. It's less strict and more fun than other climbing competitions. The format makes it very different physically. In Lead competitions, you get pumped in your forearms; in Bouldering competitions, it’s about power. But here, there are different tactics, and you just get exhausted – drained.
The multi-pitch route set on the Verzasca Dam for Red Bull Dual Ascent is long, gruelling and requires a complete restart if you fall. There are tactics behind it, too: waiting, climbing, leading, working the rope. Yet the rules are straightforward: the first to the top wins.
Going as fast up a multi-pitch as possible has been a discipline for a long time, that’s where it came from. It’s part of climbing history. Plus being able to move up fast on a wall can be lifesaving sometimes. The rescue teams in the Alps work like that. It’s about getting to the people who need saving as fast as possible. When Alberto Ginés, Luka Potočar, Domen Škofic and Jernej Kruder climbed the finale, I was picturing two rescue teams – that’s what came into my mind.
Domen Škofic takes on Red Bull Dual Ascent
© Stefan Voitl/Red Bull Content Pool
Of course, it should be fun to compete in, too. It’s a balance. If you set easy routes, it will be more interesting to non-climbers – people running up the wall, making it more impressive. If you set harder routes, like was the case in Verzasca, it’s a little slower, but anything can happen. And that’s more interesting from a climber's perspective. Even the best climbers can fall on an 8a, which was the grade of the route on the dam, and I’m more interested in watching people climb something that’s actually hard than people running up the wall on jugs.
I’ve actually tried the route and didn’t fall. I’m very done with competitions, but maybe… something like this, I think I’m more likely to say 'yes'.
For me, sport is entertainment. Something that’s very exciting to watch – and very exciting to compete in
For me, sport is entertainment. Something that’s very exciting to watch – and very exciting to compete in. It should be fun to participate. But for it to grow, it should be for the audience.
But does climbing need to grow? Some people would probably want it to be more specific to outdoor climbing. Like, a lot of people are against the parkour-like bouldering in competitions. That’s just to make it more spectacular. It’s a fine balance. In a way, it’s what I try to do with my YouTube channel. I’m trying to entertain people. That’s where I’m coming from. A lot of climbers say they just climb for themselves – but if that’s the case, I don’t see the point of climbing in competitions at all. Why not just climb outside, then? But it’s definitely a fine line.
Climbing means something different to all of us
I don’t think anyone should dictate what climbing is about. A lot of people say, 'climbing is about this, climbing is about that'. But climbing is different to all of us, it means something different to all of us. No one should have the right to dictate what climbing is for you or for me. That’s up to everyone to decide.
Planning ahead – Magnus and his climbing partner, Cedar Wright
© Pedro Lemos/Red Bull Content Pool
If you only like indoor climbing, that’s fine. When I started climbing, you weren’t supposed to say that you liked indoor climbing. That was looked down upon. And it was not cool to train – you were supposed to be strong without training. And now, it's completely changed. It’s the same with me – when I started YouTube, I got a lot of criticism for selling out, for not doing what the sport was about. Fortunately, I didn’t listen to it too much. Of course, it impacted me and was hurtful in some ways, but I didn’t care enough to stop what I was doing. And looking back on it now, I’m really happy that I didn’t let that affect me.
Honesty is the most important thing – to be honest with yourself about what you like, what you don’t like, and what you want out of climbing
So, I think honesty is the most important thing – to be honest with yourself about what you like, what you don’t like, and what you want out of climbing. Being honest with yourself, in climbing or in life, is important. And it’s harder than it seems.
Magnus climbing and working the rope on the Verzasca Dam multi-pitch route
© Pedro Lemos/Red Bull Content Pool