Climbing
After a dominant performance, Austrian duo Jessica Pilz and Jakob Schubert were crowned the 2024 Red Bull Dual Ascent champions in an adrenaline-fuelled final. Catch the highlights here.
Two world-class climbing teams went head-to-head to see who had the speed, strength and grit to conquer Switzerland's epic Verzasca Dam and take the win at the gruelling Red Bull Dual Ascent finals.
Bringing the best of the world's climbing competitors together from across the globe and different disciplines, the third installment of the Red Bull Dual Ascent final prepared for its conclusion with a local Swiss-Austrian duel.
The 2024 title was on the line at Saturday’s final, with just 180m of intense, exposed routes featuring six gnarly pitches from 6c to 8b standing between the two teams and ultimate victory.
Watch highlights in the video above, then read on to find out exactly what went down.
The stunning location is no stranger to nail-biting action. Having featured in jaw-dropping opening scenes of the James Bond film Goldeneye, the fearsome wall of the iconic dam has become the ultimate test in power and precision as the backdrop to the world's ultimate multi-pitch climbing event.
Battling soaring temperatures up to 32°C on the wall, as well as a 12-hold shake-up in the final punishing 8b pitch awaiting the teams at the top, heart rates soared as the Austrian and Swiss duos went all-in and tested their absolute limits in this one-of-a-kind climbing competition.
01
Jessica Pilz and Jakob Schubert take 2024 title with commanding win
With their blistering pace having set a new Red Bull Dual Ascent record in the semi-finals, the Austrian team Jessica Pilz and Jakob Schubert's tempo and dominance remained unmatched in the final as they blazed their way to victory.
Despite opponents Andrea Kümin and Sascha Lehmann clocking a personal best time and showcasing stunning skill, the Swiss duo had to settle for second place after the Austrians' lead became insurmountable.
02
Setting the pace
From the get-go, the Austrians' approach could be summed up in two words – pure pace. Pilz and Kümin were the first climbers out of the gate, with 24 metres of steady, clean climbing setting the tone for the anticipated final. With a record climb already in the bag, Austrian national champion Pilz appeared to be brimming with confidence, finishing the pitch a fraction ahead of her rival.
The leaders were quickly followed by Schubert and rival Lehmann, both climbers firing their way up the wall neck-and-neck, until the Austrian opened up a small lead.
Taking minimal rest, Schubert clipped on and launched into the second 7A Vogorno pitch, his experience as the most successful male competition climber clearly on display as he skilfully navigated the dynamic crux, his footwork patient, and pace quick but steady. Lehmann remained in close pursuit, doggedly keeping the Austrians’ margin of lead at a minimum and the Swiss team’s hopes of a chance at taking the win alive and kicking.
Pilz maintained the Austrians’ lead, swift and dynamic on the wall. Kümin looked comfortable and in control, and at one point began closing the gap on her rival, but Pilz shifted gears and accelerated away as the timer ticked past the 10-minute mark.
03
Make or break on Mammut Pitch
Featuring two super challenging crack sections, the third 27m Mammut Pitch was the first make-or-break moment in the final. As Pilz powered ahead, her heart hammering under the pressure of the first major challenges and blazing temperatures, the Olympic bronze medalist showed only a flicker of anxiety as she cleanly conquered the first crack.
For Andrea Kümin, it was an entirely different story, as she took her first fall from the wall, suffering the first major setback of the final. Yelling in frustration as she slipped out of the first crack section, the 27 year old was forced to restart the pitch in a bid to wipe the penalty off the timesheets. When the crack spat her out again, Kümin started to look defeated, but made the decision to give it one more shot.
Meanwhile, Pilz was powering through the chimney, looking supremely comfortable and confident in the second crux, and it wasn’t long before her team-mate was scaling the 7B+ pitch. Although Schubert was clearly on a mission to record another super-quick ascent and extend his lead, the climbing legend almost met his match on the Mammut Pitch.
I knew all I had to do was just stand the pitch, but I wanted to do it as efficiently as possible, because I felt like I could take some more risks... It didn't work at all
Battling heat and with adrenaline surging, it looked as though Schubert may have pushed too hard too early, as signs of fatigue and frustration started to become apparent. A few colourful words echoed off the walls of the dam as the exhausted Austrian uncharacteristically struggled through both the first and second crux. "Everything feels different today," he yelled, as Kümin was hot on his heels.
Reaching the chimney, a clearly gassed Schubert had to dig deeper than ever to commit to the full-body climbing, the sheer effort looking as though it was steadily destroying him. However, pulling on his reserves and still with three unforgiving pitches ahead of him, the Austrian finished the pitch penalty-free and still with a healthy length of wall between the two teams.
04
Ascent to victory
From here, with the Swiss team firmly on the back foot, the Austrian duo's mission from Cornercard Pitch onward was clear – climb clean. Despite their arms swimming in lactic acid, the technical elements of the fourth pitch played to both Pilz and Schubert's strengths, giving the team-mates time to take a quick rest and some hydration ahead of the fifth Ascona-Locarno Pitch, and a chance to reflect on the gruelling final so far.
"I've never been so pumped in my life,” Schubert remarked, before partner Pilz launched into the penultimate pitch.
Victory closer with each pull, the leading contenders had found their groove, the fluidity of both athletes' climbing propelling the Austrians through the yellow 7C+ section. By this point, the race to the top became more a question of balancing speed with precision and Schubert in particular appeared to be propelled by a gritty determination.
05
A masterpiece in grit and determination
With the win just one pitch away and conscious of the fact that a penalty could still rob the Austrian team of a win, Schubert showed no signs of wanting to take advantage of their substantial lead.
Virtually running on empty, an amped crowd cheered as the leader threw down the gauntlet and made one last push through the new 8b Contra Pitch. Schubert was in turbo mode and completed his last speedy climb, and a final jump. Within the blink of an eye and a few pulls, the two-time Olympic medallist was over the top of the dam.
As Pilz faced the final section of the ascent, Kümin had only just finished the penultimate pitch, cheered on by her rival, with Lehmann still to complete the yellow section. All seemed to be going to plan for the Austrian duo as a calm and collected Pilz began her climb. Only a fall could keep them from the Red Bull Dual Ascent win.
Nailing the first section of the last pitch, Pilz had a heart-in-the-mouth flashback moment as she grappled with the big dish, the win momentarily slipping out of focus. With Lehmann gaining, her lightning quick reflexes corrected the potentially devastating mistake and Pilz regained her composure to stick the big volcano, the last major obstacle between the Austrians and victory.
With a few more pulls, within seconds Pilz was next to Schubert, standing atop the Verzasca Dam as the brand new champions of Red Bull Dual Ascent. The clock stopped at 48m 4s.
"I had way more struggles in the Cracks than ever before and actually it took way too much power. I had to fight to actually top all the pitches today," Schubert remarked.
I was lucky to have Jessy on my side
“It was crazy, my pump was really incredible. I was lucky I still had one percent left to do all the other routes. In this case, when you’re really pumped and you’re desperate, you’re just fighting. It means a lot and gives you so much confidence when your partner looks really strong and super safe. I was lucky to have Jessy on my side."
06
Local heroes settle for second and new PB
For Sascha Lehmann and Andrea Kümin, there was still a race to finish. As the Austrian duo celebrated, the Swiss runner-up team remained composed, with Sascha first to battle his way through the last 8b pitch, looking remarkably relaxed as he wrapped the 180m route.
We really tried hard to push from the start, maybe a bit too much
The last climber out on the wall, Kümin was working on the limit as the Swiss team looked to be recording a new best time. As fatigue ate up the last of the 27 year old's reserves, she failed to find the height and stamina to stick the final jump landing with both hands. Taking the penalty and making the last few pulls to the top, the local hero emerged smiling over the top of the dam.
The Swiss team finished a brutal week of competition in second overall, having shaved a monumental six minutes off their best time with 56m 43s.
"Once we had the penalty, I knew it was just like 'I can go full risk and try to go as fast as possible', which was fun for me," Lehmann quipped after the competition. "Of course, it was a bit disappointing that we couldn't keep up with Jessi and Jakob. Andrea had a fall in the crack and then we had to decide if we wanted to take the penalty or just retry. We decided to go and at least catch up… just go for a big race. And it was fun to climb."
07
Buckley and Râpă secure third
The youngest team in the competition, Slovenia's Jennifer Buckley and Romanian Darius Râpă, wrapped up the event in third after their semi-final performance earned them a podium spot. The duo faced off against Pilz and Schubert in the semi-finals on Thursday, but couldn't match the speed and stamina of the eventual victors.
“It was incredible to climb against these strong competitors. The difference in the pace between yesterday and today is insane. I was on the verge of throwing up multiple times. My heart was exploding. It was an insane effort, but I really loved it, though!” said 18 year old Râpă.
It was incredible to climb against these strong competitors. The difference in the pace between yesterday and today is insane
Buckley and Râpă were due to take on 2023 finalists Alberto Ginés López of Spain and Ukrainian Jenya Kazbekova to battle for third. Despite a strong qualification, the former title contenders had lost out to Kümin and Lehmann in the semis, which placed them head-to-head with the teenage Buckley and Râpă.
“Yesterday we felt really strong, today we couldn't fight at all,” Ginés López remarked after the race.
With Ginés López unable to continue compete due to injury, both he and Kazbekova withdrew from Saturday’s race. This meant that Buckley and Râpăa were automatically confirmed as the official third place teeam. Ginés López and Kazbekova placed fourth overall.
In lieu of Saturday’s battle for third, and to feed spectators' appetite for the competition, local hero Petra Klingler and her French team-mate Louna Ladevant took on the up-and-coming generation in a show climb before the final battle.
Want more? Check out the full results here and rewatch all the Red Bull Dual Ascent finals action here