Nepali mountaineer and 14 Peaks star Nirmal 'Nims' Purja poses for a photo during the a climb with a mountain range in the background.
© Pemba Sherpa
Climbing

Nims Purja just set 2 new world records and reminded us all he's superhuman

The Nepali mountaineer just climbed Everest, Lhotse and Kanchenjunga in eight days, 23 hours and 10 minutes. Without supplementary oxygen.
Written by Ben Sullivan
3 min readPublished on
Nirmal 'Nims' Purja has set two new world records, marking yet another 8,000m season where he has pushed the boundaries of his sport further than many thought possible.
In just eight days, 23 hours and 10 minutes, Purja summited Everest, Lhotse and Kanchenjunga - all without supplementary oxygen.
Simultaneously, Purja has set the fastest ever traverse of Everest to Lhotse without oxygen, completing the route in 26 hours.
The two records were smashed between May 7 and May 16 – peak 8,000m season – while Purja was guiding and leading successful expeditions with his Elite Exped team.
Remarkably, all summits were completed without supplementary oxygen, a mountaineering style and ethos for which Purja is well known.
“I was leading and guiding without oxygen – I was checking in and making sure everyone was OK, fed and rested and strong. And for me when I do a summit push it is from Base Camp to the summit and then from the summit back to Base Camp," said Purja in a blog post.
"For me that’s the only way to do it. It has to be authentic – no helicopter lifts back to Base Camp – unless the summit is void or there’s an emergency situation or rescue and someone needs a helicopter.”
Purja points out, however, the records were not the goal of this month's summit expeditions. With teams of less experienced climbers setting sights on their own goals, Purja and his Elite Exped teams were working as guides.
But this makes the records even more extraordinary, and speaks volumes for the new era of high-level mountaineering pioneered by Purja and his fellow climbers.
Find out more about Nims Purja's 14 Peaks Challenge in the Beyond the Ordinary podcast:
He said on the blog post: “For me one of the best bits is to be with the best Sherpas and I’m climbing with no oxygen, but I’m still in control and running the show – keeping up with the fittest clients I have ever worked with – it shows nothing is impossible.
“Some people will always be negative, they can’t think outside the box - they can’t believe these things can be done – but we are in a different league here, and I am proud to be inspiring people to achieve their own dreams."
Purja dedicated the records to "the whole climbing community", and said they make a clear statement to the next generation of climbers, particularly in Nepal, that these achievements can be done.
"Before #14Peaks, no one believed all 14 x 8,000m peaks could be done in six months and now people are looking at it and going ‘I could do that.’ They can follow that inspiration and vision to achieve their own goals – I’m proud to be helping to inspire people like this. Nothing is impossible.”