Surfing
Surfing
Q&A with Big Wave Surfer Irie Fitzgerald
We sat down with big wave surfer and Red Bull Magnitude contestant Irie Fitzgerald to talk about her competition mindset.
Watch the Red Bull Magnitude competitors in our Swell 3 recap below.
3 min
Red Bull Magnitude Swell 3 Recap
Red Bull .COM: Where are you from?
Irie Fitzgerald: I am originally from Guam. I lived in Guam before moving to the South Shore of Oahu.
RB: When did you start surfing big waves?
Irie: I started to surf Waimea this past winter, but I’ve been pushing myself at pipeline for about two years now and started surfing heavier waves when I was younger in Guam.
RB: What does a day in your life look like during big wave season?
Irie: I wake up around 5 AM and drive from town (Honolulu) to the North Shore to beat the crowd. After maybe a two hour session, I’ll come in and grab some food at Foodland and head out again for another session until dark. Sometimes I van-life during good swells to get more time in the water. I’ll do this almost every day during the winter season.
RB: Describe surfing big waves in 3 words.
Irie: Adrenaline, confidence, and excitement!
Irie Fitzgerald Portrait
© Arto Saari
RB: If you had to compare big wave surfing to anything else in the world, what would that be? If there really is anything to compare it to?
Irie: Big wave surfing is such a unique experience from having the first feel of butterflies in your stomach when you paddle over a set, to the release of all fears while popping up on to a 15 foot plus wave. There’s so much adrenaline, fear, excitement, and relief all going through your brain in a matter of seconds. So the answer to that question is no, I couldn’t really think of anything that I could compare to big wave surfing.
RB: How would you describe the community of women who surf big waves here in Hawai’i?
Irie: The woman’s big wave surf community here in Hawaii has helped me learn and meet so many people, I’m still very new to big wave surfing but thanks to everyone in the community I’ve learned valuable things when it comes to safety and what swell conditions are best. It’s also a blessing to see other female surfers just enjoying the love for big waves. They definitely make it more comfortable to be in the lineup.
RB: What motivates you to surf big waves?
Irie: I like to push myself to do things that I am afraid of. The first time I paddled out to Waimea I was unprepared and terrified. I was so scared I had to do the paddle of shame and come in without catching a single wave. After that I told myself that I was going to surf Waimea by the end of the winter season. I knew I couldn’t do it by myself so I had some help from my dad and friends to take me out. I soon grew more comfortable and now I’m stoking to whip my board around on a set.
RB: Do you feel a connection to a certain big wave over another?
Irie: So far I’ve only surfed Waimea but I want to surf other locations to experience every type of wave.
RB: Has surfing big waves and all of the mental preparation that's involved helped you navigate other aspects of your life?
Irie: Surfing big waves has definitely made me appreciate life more. I’ve had some scares where I would be stuck under white wash hoping that I was close to the surface. Every time I come in from surfing big waves I have a little voice in my head that says “good job today, you’re okay, you’re in one piece.”
RB: What do you hope to see for the future of women’s big wave surfing?
Irie: I hope to see more girls uplift each other into surfing bigger waves for the passion. The woman’s big wave surfing community is like a family and I hope contests like this will encourage girls to push themselves!
Irie Fitzgerald in Hawaii
© Arto Saari
