Surfing

Secrets to Surfing World's Most Dangerous Wave

Ten vital facts about Red Bull Cape Fear, which will challenge even the best big-wave surfers.
By Derek Rielly
4 min readPublished on
Koby Abberton: Cape Fear

Koby Abberton: Cape Fear

© Billy Morris

Some time between now and the end of August a hand-picked troupe of big-wave surfers will go head-to-head at Red Bull Cape Fear in Sydney's east. You might know the wave as Ours. If you want to find it on a map, it's at the southern headland of Botany Bay, a few hundred metres from Sydney's international airport.
And yet for all the photos, all the videos, all the attention and the hyperbole, most surfers know very little about the wave. For instance, did you know that bodyboarders are actively banned? An agreement was struck between bodyboarders and the Maroubra surfers who are the most vigorous users of the wave, whereupon bodyboarders would avoid Ours and Maroubra surfers would leave 'em Shark Island in nearby Cronulla. Cooperation! So rare in this mixed-up world. But that ain't all. Read 10 more surprising facts about Red Bull Cape Fear

10. The reef that is Ours is actually one of three waves

Its immediate neighbor is called Middles and beyond that is the Top Wave. More photos than you'd imagine that are labeled "Ours" are actually Middles. Remember Kelly Slater surfing there a couple of years ago just before Bells? Middles. In winter it handles the predominant south swells, whereas Ours prefers a more easterly swell, which is more common in the spring months.

9. The exit is horrific

It's not as difficult as Jaws on Maui, but to exit the water means being washed up on a slime-covered rock ledge. And the bigger the swell, the more dramatic the exit. Dignity? Forget about it.

8. Look for the swirl

According to contest organizer Mark Mathews, there's a "swirl" that allows you an entry point into the wave during the strongest of swells. In other words, a boil will occasionally appear that'll retard the wave's ability to throw on the takeoff. Recognize it, and it solves a very major problem. And when it does…

7. The take-off is a piece of cake

But you gotta be able to recognise the swirl.

6. It's all about the backwash

It opens the tube. But it's the finest of lines. Too much backwash, and the wave becomes impossible to ride.

5. Contest director Mark Mathews has spent the most time there

He even knows what his home break Maroubra looks like when it's on and, to a degree, what direction the best swells are. (But he keeps these numbers very secret.)

4. You can forget the gun

You might even want to ride a step-down. Too long, and you'll catch a rail on those late takeoffs. But volume and heavy glass are desirable.

3. It's a world-class board annihilator

On a good day, the parking lot, the shelf and the picnic benches will be littered with upwards of 20 busted ships.

2. Towing is hard

This isn't the wave for step-offs. The wave comes out of such deep water that it swirls under your ski, thereby making it difficult to get off the wave. (Who wants to be the guy going over the falls on a jet ski?) But when it reaches a certain size, there's no way the sets can be paddled. And the best driver? Mark Mathews. If he's driving during the event it'll be an unfair advantage for whoever's got him.

1. The waterfall

Wiping out in front of the cliff face is so dangerous because the cliff acts like a waterfall and completely screws up the surfer's perception of where the beach is. Usually turbulence indicates to a surfer where the ocean and beach meet. However the water rushing from the cliff makes it feels like you’re looking to the ocean. But it ain't! Meanwhile, the next wave in the set is right behind you, preparing to loose your head from your shoulders.

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