RIDING THE WAVE: Luke Shepardson
THE RED BULLETIN: When did you start surfing?
I grew up surfing with friends and family. It’s what I love to do. It keeps me in the present and is always there for me. It helps me get away from stuff if I’m having a hard day. Every time you get out of the water, you go back to whatever you were doing feeling better.
Did you have dreams of making it as a pro as a kid?
I did, but it wasn’t for me. I was sponsored by a local surf shop, North Shore, but they didn’t have a ton of money. I’d feel so anxious whenever I paddled out in a competition jersey. Total butterflies. I’d make mistakes that I otherwise wouldn’t have. I [won a few competitions], but generally I was putting too much pressure on myself. It took the fun out of surfing.
Why did you become a lifeguard?
It had always been a dream of mine. I tried out at 18 and then again at 20, but they wouldn’t let me in, because I was taking all this time off for surf competitions. I had my son when I was 23, and I decided I needed something solid, so I quit competing and got accepted as a lifeguard. That last competition, I made it to the semifinals. Because I knew it was my last, I didn’t put any pressure on myself.
What has been your gnarliest moment as a lifeguard?
Two of my friends got injured a couple of years apart, both at [local break] Pipeline. I saw my friend nosedive from the top of a wave and go down pretty hard. He didn’t come up, and a few surfers brought him to shore. He was nonresponsive. I performed first aid and eventually he responded. But it was a long road until he was back to full health. The same kind of thing happened with another friend a few months ago.
Given the danger of big waves, what’s the appeal of the Eddie?
It had always been a dream to compete. Eddie [Aikau, a local legend, who died in a canoeing accident in 1978] was the first lifeguard on the North Shore with a perfect record of rescues. It’s a testament to how good of a waterman and lifeguard he was. He performed so many selfless acts, ultimately sacrificing his own life to get help when the canoe he was in capsized at sea. It’s about honoring his legacy.
Did that help you overcome the pressure of competing?
Yeah, it had been a lifelong ambition because of him. And it was right there on the beach where I worked. I was overwhelmed when I took part —I cried when I put the jersey on. It’s a huge deal to everyone in the sport.
What was it like to take part?
I was preoccupied with work during the day, but when I grabbed my jersey for my heat I started tearing up. I was so stoked to achieve this lifelong goal—I was blown away that it was coming true. To be surfing among legends I’ve looked up to my whole life, and to be part of that energy, was unbelievable. I surfed as best I could, then went back to work.
Did you ever think you had a chance of winning?
I knew I had a couple of good waves in my second heat, so I did have a thought I could win, but of course you never know. When they announced it, it was ... I don’t even know how to explain it. The emotion that filled my body was just ... I was in shock. It was one of the best moments of my life.
Has winning changed things?
I’m only really starting to process it, but it’s all pretty surreal. I don’t want to give up being a lifeguard, but I would like some sponsors to help me go surf dream breaks in Tahiti and Africa—although the cold water there kind of scares me. I’m done with competitions, but I’ll never stop surfing. Ever.
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