Travel
Paradise Found
Whether you want to hike, surf, soar, party or maybe make the world a better place, here are sweet getaway ideas on three Hawaiian islands.
Glowing Things on the Big Island
Not for nothing is the island of Hawaii known as the Big Island—it’s nearly twice as large as the state’s seven other isles combined. And when it comes to outdoor adventure, no place is quite as extra: It’s a land of wild jungles, snow- tipped mountains, crashing waterfalls and multicolored beaches (white, black and even green sand).
And most prominently, there’s Kilauea, the world’s most fidgety volcano. On several hikes at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, you can check out the geothermal phenomena the cone unleashes. Things aren’t nearly as volatile as they were in 2018, when the volcano erupted and spewed lava from May through August, wiping out more than 700 homes. But Kilauea is still highly tempestuous, often belching up gases and fiery magma, and on the Crater Rim Trail you can witness the destruction wrought by the eruptions. Hike from Uēkahuna to just past Keanakākoʻi Crater; from Waldron Ledge, you’ll take in a view of the Halemaʻumaʻu crater, which spectacularly collapsed in 2018. For a tougher challenge, add on the Kilauea Iki Trail, which descends into lush jungle and offers a glimpse into a steam vent that erupted to a height of 1,900 feet in 1959. You’ll also have the option to add on the Thurston Lava Tube.
Near Kona on the Big Island, swim with manta rays during the day or night.
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Hawaii Volcanoes National Park—from lush jungle to geothermal drama.
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Afterward, head over to Kona for a different kind of eerily powerful incandescent experience: night snorkeling with manta rays. Outfitters use spotlights to attract plankton that feed on the light, after which reef mantas turn up to feed. Floating among them is like a stellar acid trip minus the actual hallucinogenics.
For sustenance, settle into a table at the Feeding Leaf Kitchen and Okazuya, a Japanese hand-food restaurant in Kona that backs local farmers, ranchers and producers. Go early for the loco moco (a hamburger, fried egg, and brown gravy sitting atop white rice) and other tasty morsels; Feeding Leaf closes at 1 p.m. or whenever the food runs out. Equally backyard-focused is Ola Brew, a business that turns locally sourced ingredients into the likes of the tasty Mo’ Hazy IPA. Or try the Next Level Lau Lau (that’s the way it appears on the menu) at Umekes Fish Market Bar & Grill; the panko- crusted fish comes with fried rice, brown gravy and a tempura-poached egg. For lodging in artsy Holualoa,10 m inutes away, book the Holualoa Inn, situated at 1,400 feet on a working coffee farm and fruit orchard. The fresh coffee beans go into the morning brew, and the 30- acre property includes a pool and hot tub.
The Road to Hana on Maui is a drive of bucket-list quality.
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Surfing Maui
Maui has waves for everyone— whether you’re looking for a spot to watch the world’s best go big or a break for regular mortals to paddle out. For the former, light out for legendary North Shore spots like Peahi, aka Jaws, where film crews capture pros being towed by jet ski into the behemoth barrels. To access waves appropriate for the rest of us, set up a base of operations in the centrally located boho town of Paia and hit up beaches like Kihei and Lahaina.
There’s plenty more happening beyond the surf action. Head to Hookipa Beach, also on the northern shore, to check out the windsurfing capital of the world. It’s equally ideal for getting a lesson in catching breezes or a lazy afternoon sitting under a hau tree watching for the hona (finches) and Hawaiian green sea turtles that frequent the area. Or head to uncrowded Tavares Beach for snorkeling or boogie boarding. There’s also the Sacred Garden of Maliko, the funky property where Janis Joplin and Jimi Hendrix reportedly stayed when he shot the movie Rainbow Bridge; the experience appropriately includes outdoor labyrinths. And anyone hunkered down on Maui can always navigate the legendary Road to Hana, with its 59 stone bridges and 619 hairpin turns.
Tuck into the blackened sashimi or grilled ono at Paia Fish Market, a decidedly chill local favorite with communal tables. Or try Nuka, a 50-seat izakaya-style restaurant where the chef has 30-plus years’ experience making sushi on Maui. For food more on the fly, stop in on the food trucks at the Haiku Market. Crash at the Inn at Mama’s Fish House, a property near Paia that’s tucked into a coconut grove on a beach that borders Hookipa Beach; it’s a diametrically opposite experience from the bustling resort scene. Or, for a larger property where you can also study up on meditation and the healing arts, try Lumeria Maui, a retreat center in upcountry Maui.
Immerse yourself in the island culture at the Polynesian Cultural Center.
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Doing Good in Oahu
Much of Hawaii’s magic lies in its location in the South Pacific—but that positioning also leaves it vulnerable to masses of plastic that oceanic currents sweep to its shores. You can help push back against the trash by collabing with Sustainable Coastlines Hawaii on a beach cleanup. You’ll make a tangible difference by spending a day ridding an otherwise idyllic shoreline of debris and microplastics, then memorializing your progress on a data sheet. Volunteers can register for small group efforts online or borrow DIY kits to put together a self- directed cleanup. For a different, historical perspective on how Hawaii’s location helped shape its destiny, head over to the Pearl Harbor National Memorial. There you can stand at ground zero of one of the nation’s most infamous attacks by taking the free boat ride out to the site of the sunken USS Arizona, where 1,177 U.S. servicemen lost their lives.
For a deeper dive into Polynesian culture, sign up for a sail with Kamoauli. The expedition aboard an all- wood, double-hulled, traditional canoe includes demonstrations and explanations of local history and mythology. The boat, known as a wa’a kaulua, is the only U.S. Coast Guard– certified Polynesian watercraft of its kind. For a more adrenaline-driven experience, head to Makapuu, on the southeastern end of the island—the epicenter of the island’s paragliding scene. First-timers can tandem jump off a cliff 647 feet above the sea; experienced guides are available throughout the area.
It may feel a bit over now that it’s a chain, but the Original Roy’s in Hawaii Kai is still banging; the misoyaki butterfish, marinated in ingredients like white miso, sake, mirin and sugar, is a potentially life-changing experience. The Surfing Pig in Honolulu is also worth a visit; the much-beloved street tacos come with three sauces and perfectly complement the truffle fries. Start your visit there with a smoking pig, the local version of a classic old- fashioned that uses bacon- infused bourbon and is smoked and served tableside. Crash at Surfjack, a hotel with a groovy retro vibe in the heart of Waikiki where each room bears the curated touches of local artists. At the hotel’s Swim Club, show up for the “adult swim,” an in-pool happy hour from 6 to 9 p.m.