Surfing
XXL Awards: Where Those Who Go Big Get Honored
The best big wave surfers, photographers, and filmers gathered to celebrate the boundary-pushers.
One world record, one near-death experience, the ride of a lifetime, and a dash of controversy. In summation that was the 2013 Billabong XXL Big Wave Awards.
Held at The Grove Theater in Anaheim, California, on Friday, May 3, big-wave surfing's illuminati gathered to celebrate another year of chasing the world's biggest swells. Topping the headlines was Santa Cruz's Shawn Dollar, who won the "Biggest Wave" and "Biggest Paddle-in" awards. Dollar was officially awarded the world record for paddling into a 61-foot wave at Cortes Bank on Dec. 21, 2012.
"I wasn't even sure I wanted to go out there," told Dollar of the 100-mile voyage out to the infamous Cortes Bank. "I just wanted to check it out. Next thing I knew I was way up the reef on that one, and I was on my own. I had to make it."
With a dose of sarcasm upon winning the "Surfline Performance" award Long remarked, "Sure, give it to the guy who almost died."
On the same expedition to Cortes, Greg Long demonstrated exactly what can happen when something does go wrong. After getting steamrolled by a 25-footer, Long was subsequently held down for several more waves. His unconscious body was eventually found on the inside by rescue personnel, who were able to partially revive him before getting further help on a nearby boat. Long was then taken by Coast Guard helicopter to a hospital in San Diego, where he made a full recovery.
With a dose of sarcasm upon winning the "Surfline Performance" award Long remarked, "Sure, give it to the guy who almost died."
And while that would be enough excitement for one year, Shane Dorian's Oct. 8 bomb at Jaws reminded everybody that Hawaii remains the world's big-wave epicenter. Dorian, who won the $50,000 "Ride of the Year" top prize, as well as "Tube of the Year," was his usual humble self. He took time to thank all of the water-safety personnel who allow people like him and Long to do what they do.
"Tonight's a celebration of the year in big-wave surfing and everybody that's out there chasing these things," told Dorian. "The bar continues to be raised to new heights."
There were a lot of hugs and pats on the back, but there was also a note of discontent. Upon winning the Girl's Performance Award, Keala Kennelly uncorked on the surf industry for not being bigger financial backers of the women's big-wave pursuit.
"It has to change sooner rather than later," Kennelly said from the podium. The crowd exploded in cheers. "We need to demand it. Demand change. Make it happen."
Money aside, man or woman, every year the bar for what's possible for a human to ride under their own power is raised. In 2010 Dollar broke the same world record for a wave he rode at Maverick's. Needless to say, the record didn't stand long. 30 feet used to be considered the brink of the unridden realm. Dollar doubled that height on his Cortes 61-footer.
Even after staring down death Greg Long stood tall in front of a packed out and wide-reaching webcast audience and said, "We're now paddling into waves people used to have to be towed into. Records are being broken every year. It is a great time to be a big-wave surfer."
Check out our Surf Channel for more info and news.
