No Days Off S1 E4: Sasha DiGiulian in Maine, USA
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Climbing

8 top climbing spots in Maine

Whether you climb along the coast, upstate, or in the mountain region in the west, you’re sure to create lasting memories.
By Ben Kissam
5 min readPublished on
“The coastline of Maine is beautiful, rugged, and host to an impressive ecosystem that the people who live here care for,” says Sasha DiGiulian in "No Days Off."

10 min

Maine, USA

Sasha navigates Maine’s climbing landscape and learns more about humanity’s impact on the environment.

English

Home to more than 6,000 lakes, 228 miles of ocean coastline, and 711 mountains that exceed 1,000 feet, America’s most northeastern state truly is an outdoor adventurer’s paradise. Those who love climbing can find opportunities in the state’s national parks, little towns along the coast, and some of the more off-the-beaten-path locations locals rave about.

The 8 Top Climbing Spots in Maine

Here are our top 8 climbing spots in Maine, based on location and the type of climbing you're after!
01

Acadia

Ever climbed a sea cliff before? There are 309 climbs in Acadia, Maine’s most popular tourist attraction, many of which are sea stacks (like Otter Cliff) right along the ocean. The park is full of coarse-grained pink granite, a favorite for many climbers due to its hardness and resistance to erosion, making climbing in all types of weather an option.
Acadia National Park gets more than 4 million visitors per year, according to National Park Service data. As residents and the Acadia mountain guides will tell you, it’s truly “the way life should be,” which makes sense since it’s the slogan of Maine!
  • Location: 50 miles east of Bangor, along the coast of Maine.
02

Camden Hills

Journey south down route 1 on your way back from Acadia to check out Camden Hills, a crag in Penobscot Bay that offers solid rock and ice climbing throughout the year. (Nearby climbing schools and guide services like Equinox Guiding Service can help you get started with ice climbing if you’re new.)
Barrett’s Cove Cliff is one of the most pristine sections, a 250-foot cliff with plenty of accessible climbing available right off the main road. There’s a public beach right below to soak up some sun when you’re finished.
  • Location: Off Route 1, just outside of Rockport.
03

Mt. Kineo

Over 800 feet tall, Mount Kineo offers six secured alpine climbs along Moosehead Lake in a truly remote part of the state—perfect for a day of climbing in solitude. This east-facing giant is eroding in some spots, and upkeep is minimal due to its remote location, so make your best judgment on which routes to climb when you get there.
  • Location: Inside Mount Kineo State Park, near Rockwood, not accessible by road.
04

Shagg Crag

Short and challenging are two words that pretty much sum up this little gem in Woodstock! Shagg Crag offers 56 climbing areas graded from beginner-friendly 5.9 to the most difficult 5.13c, meaning you can challenge yourself as much as you want. The sections are packed with steep, jagged rocks and surrounded by dense forest, making it a beautiful place to climb in the fall when leaves are changing.
  • Location: Woodstock, Maine, near Shagg Pond.
05

Clifton Crags

One of the great things about Maine is its sheer diversity in landscape and outdoor activity offerings. You’ll find that at Clifton Crags, which gets heavily overlooked due to its proximity to Acadia National Park—a shame, especially for sport climbers. There are 179 climbs here, bouldering sections, and all the solitude and views of the park you could want.
  • Location: Right outside the town of Clifton, 30 miles east of Bangor.
06

Mount Katahdin

Most know Mount Katahdin as the finish line of the 2,100-mile Appalachian Trail. But it’s also one of the oldest documented climbing sections in America. (The first recorded climb on Katahdin was in 1804!) There are multiple routes ranging from class two to four climbs here. Be prepared for loose rock and sudden weather changes. If you’re an adrenaline seeker, walk along Knife Edge, which offers a 2,000-foot drop on either side of its narrow path.
  • Location: Inside Baxter State Park.
07

Twitchell Pond Crag

Coastal Maine gets a lot of love, but the western mountain region is home to some wonderful climbing, too, especially if you’re a fan of bouldering. Twitchell Pond Crag is a solid granite slab with more than a dozen moderately rated routes ranging from 10 to 15 feet. This part of Maine is surrounded by densely forested mountains and lakes ripe for swimming and fishing. It’s also only a short drive from New Hampshire’s White Mountain region, home to some of North America's most rugged terrain and unpredictable weather patterns.
  • Location: Between West Paris and Bethel on Greenwood Road.
08

Tumbledown Mountain

With 700-plus-foot cliffs with a pond closed off on three sides in the middle make Tumbledown Mountain one of the most unique areas in all of Maine. The area is home to mostly beginner-friendly trad climbs. It’s also an amazing area to spot wildlife. In fact, Tumbledown Mountain has been flagged by Maine Wildlife Conservation as a peregrine falcon breeding area; you could see some, but keep your distance.
  • Location: East of Byron, Maine, right near the Loop Trailhead.

Conclusion

Even the most popular climbing spots in Maine are, relatively speaking, utilized less than in other parts of the country. Still, the state is perfect for climbers of all levels and ambitions. Whether you climb along the coast, upstate, or in the mountain region in the west, you’re sure to create lasting memories.
By the way, some of the Northeast’s best mountain biking trails are located in New England—and believe it or not, you can surf year-round in New England, too.

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No Days Off

Sasha DiGiulian ventures to the world's most remote climbs, while raising awareness of environmental issues.

1 Season · 6 episodes
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